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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question and need some help. My 94 Polaris XLT with the XC-100 rear skid has been fussed with and I want to get it back to the factory starting point. In the past someone had moved the rear mounting of the skid to the lower holes but did not move the front or adjust the limiter strap. Needless to say the sled didn't handle very well. I relocated the rear mounting point to the factory location but I noticed the skid and track don't sit flat on the floor. the back portion of the track remains off the floor a bit. I noted the front shock is in the lower hole and the rear scissors is in the forward hole. My book says factory for the shock is the upper hole and the scissors should be in the rear hole. Do I need to remove the skid to make these changes? Also what about the rear limiter strap? I can't find any information on that setting. I don't believe my front or rear springs have adjusters on them to turn either. Any help would be appreciated. I will be taking a much closer look at it saturday but I am trying to get as informed as I can.
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Best to post pictures of the skid after pulled out of the sled. Something doesn't sound right or explained correctly.
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Did they lower the front mounting holes too? That's what it sounds like to me.
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The standard upper shock mounting hole is the upper rear most hole on the front torque arm, looking at the arm left to right. For the bottom of the shock, you can't screw up...there only one place for the bolt to go. The rest of the op's thread is where it gets foggy.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did they lower the front mounting holes too? That's what it sounds like to me.
No, the front was left in the only location currently available. I see the other locations for the front but it was not moved.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The standard upper shock mounting hole is the upper rear most hole on the front torque arm, looking at the arm left to right. For the bottom of the shock, you can't screw up...there only one place for the bolt to go. The rest of the op's thread is where it gets foggy.
Thanks! I will have to move that.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The red arrows indicate the current placement of the shock and scissors. I am unsure where the link rods are located.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm goimg to try to pull the skid out on saturday and post some photos.
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All those other holes will give a much softer ride, maybe better for less experienced lighter weight riders.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are some pics of the skid out of the sled. Brought it into the basement to warm up overnight.
the bearings are all ok for this season yet. The adjustable spring blocks and the little plastic seats for the long end of the springs are worn. Gonna move the scissors and the front shock back to the stock location and grease it up. I will see how it sits after that. I will order and replace the spring seats and blocks once they arrive.
Anybody have any pointers for me on the setup other than the factory settings?
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I'd pull the shocks and take spring off fts shock and see if they are shot. I'm betting those are no good either.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, the shocks are shot.
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I take it that its not the sp version from seeing it has non-rebuildable shocks. I'd try and pick up some fox shocks from a 94 xlt sp...their rebuildable and will improve the suspension quality. Gotta be a bunch of them out there....maybe even try the guys that rebuild shocks and see if they have a set already rebuilt for a quick sale.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I picked up a new set of shocks and pet them in, lubed every shaft and idler bearing and am ready to put it back in. I donwonder what these holes are for?
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I'd suspect by locating the lower shock mount to those lower holes would greatly increase the stiffness of ride for that rear shock. Where the shock is mounted now is the stock location. Usually there is enough adjustment in the 3 torsion spring positions for heavier riders. If you replaced those shocks with the standard hydraulic ones they came with, your not going to be a happy camper unless you mainly use the sled to tow out your ice fishing gear/sled.
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I'd suspect by locating the lower shock mount to those lower holes would greatly increase the stiffness of ride for that rear shock. Where the shock is mounted now is the stock location. Usually there is enough adjustment in the 3 torsion spring positions for heavier riders. If you replaced those shocks with the standard hydraulic ones they came with, your not going to be a happy camper unless you mainly use the sled to tow out your ice fishing gear/sled.
Thanks, I was just wondering about the extra holes. I did use the stock repacements but for my purposes it will be better than the blown out stuff that was on it. This is primarily an ice fishing sled that I might get to take on a trail once or twice a year so I just want it to be reliable. I would like to upgrade to a nicer sled in a few years anyway.
In the end I ended up replacing both shocks, the rear spring adjusters, the little round spring perches for the long end of the rear springs, packing the bearings for the rollers, greasing all the shafts and returning to all the stock settings for the suspension. I also replaced the carbides on the skis. Should be a little better ride than before. And the bonus is it fixed the issue with it not sitting flat on the floor.
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Thanks, I was just wondering about the extra holes. I did use the stock repacements but for my purposes it will be better than the blown out stuff that was on it. This is primarily an ice fishing sled that I might get to take on a trail once or twice a year so I just want it to be reliable. I would like to upgrade to a nicer sled in a few years anyway.
In the end I ended up replacing both shocks, the rear spring adjusters, the little round spring perches for the long end of the rear springs, packing the bearings for the rollers, greasing all the shafts and returning to all the stock settings for the suspension. I also replaced the carbides on the skis. Should be a little better ride than before. And the bonus is it fixed the issue with it not sitting flat on the floor.
You should be good to go. The hydraulic shocks will work fine for what you will be doing. I have a 95 XLT 600 special with the xtra 12 with Fox shocks that I had rebuilt this year and it does ride nice for a 95.
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You should be good to go. The hydraulic shocks will work fine for what you will be doing. I have a 95 XLT 600 special with the xtra 12 with Fox shocks that I had rebuilt this year and it does ride nice for a 95.
I would check your front shocks also. Just remove the springs and check the action of the shocks. I put them in the freezer for a couple hours and then test them. Check for smooth operation throughout the stroke and good dampening. If there is water in them they will freeze up.
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Source: https://www.hardcoresledder.com/forums/314-trail-classic-xlt/1848346-xlt-suspension-help.html
